The Glass Onion

The Glass Onion’s shrimp and grits looked the part when it arrived, with a tomato gravy around a mound of rich, creamy grits. The menu described Carolina shrimp, andouille sausage, Creole tomatoes, and Marsh Hen Mills grits. The tomato gravy is a different sauce from many of the plates I’ve had in the Lowcountry, but it felt completely at home with the dish.

The grits were the standout. They were creamy, rich, and tasted cheesy, although the menu didn’t mention cheese. They would have been delicious on their own. The shrimp weren’t especially large, but there were plenty of them. They may have been a touch overcooked, though nothing egregious. The andouille fit the plate, even if I expected more flavor and heat from it.

The tomato gravy reminded me of stewed tomatoes, a separate Lowcountry staple. Once it mingled with the grits, it took on something of a tomato-bisque quality. The sauce wasn’t excessive for the amount of grits; the balance between the elements was wonderful. It was well seasoned without being spicy.

I enjoyed every bite. I’d return for this plate at lunch or dinner, and I recommend it highly. The tomato preparation may be less common, but here it brought the shrimp, sausage, and grits together beautifully.